Hardwood Floor Installation Near Me
When you get to the last rows, switch back to nailing by hand. On the last row, cut the pieces to fit, measuring the distance from the wall to the board – not the tongue – and minus the expansion gap.
To hide the seams where the floor meets the wall, attach a baseboard to the bottom of the wall with a finish nailer. It is easier to paint or stain the baseboard before it is installed. Use your miter saw to cut thresholds to the length of your doorway openings. Install them by simply laying them in their correct location and finish nailing them to the subfloor. As with the floor planks, use an awl to tap the nail heads down so they sit below the surface of the threshold.
When humidity and temperatures are too high or too low (like when hardwood is stored in a cold/dry or hot/humid space before installation) the moisture content of the wood changes too, causing shrinkage or expansion.
Hardwood floors perform their best in the same comfort range that we typically enjoy ourselves: a relative humidity of 35–50%, and temperatures of 60–80 degrees. Under these conditions, the moisture content of wood stays in its ideal range of 6–9%.
With other flooring materials, you are stuck with the designs available on the market. But with hardwood floors, you can do a bit of customization. You can stain them in the color or tone you want and have them installed in a pattern you prefer.
If the final piece is 1 inch wide or less, apply a small amount of wood glue to the tongue and groove and insert the piece with a pry bar and piece of scrap wood to protect the wall. Otherwise, face-nail the final piece, countersink and fill the hole with matching putty.
Maintenance is easy for a solid, site finished hardwood floor — keep grit off of the surface by sweeping regularly and use a flooring cleaning kit (Bona) and spray on and wipe off with a damp microfiber cloth. Hardwood floors also help cut down on dust mites.
Where we live can affect the moisture content of wood subfloors. By ensuring your wood subfloor is acclimated, you’ll reduce the possibility that it will expand and contract and cause damage to your hardwood.
Using Quarter sawn white oak hardwood flooring is a very good option as the grain runs on a vertical plane so when the flooring expands, it expands vertically and when it contracts, it contracts vertically not horizontally like plain sawn. Quarter sawn white oak is very often considered a very elegant and classy. This flooring’s lifespan, which can last at least fifty years; maybe even one hundred and fifty years if you avoid any serious damage and maintain the finish. Like the acacia, the Quarter sawn white oak hardwood flooring is also known for its unique patterns.
Often a floor will meet an obstruction such as a fireplace or counter. If so, miter boards to create a border that frames the obstruction. Position the boards so the tongue or groove mates with the rest of the floorboards. Cut off the tongue if it is on the edge that meets the obstruction. Apply the rest of the floor as you normally would, fitting the pieces into the frame as you go.
Working on any existing hardwood flooring will require sanding to ensure a smooth and easy work. Although this sounds like something that anyone can do, sanding is best left to the pros because there is a possibility of gouges to form when sanding. This can be challenging to remedy and may require you to replace the damaged wood.
It is also such a versatile flooring material that it can even be installed in bathrooms and kitchens just as well as your living rooms and bedrooms. However, some precautionary measures are needed so that it will not be affected by moisture, which these rooms are usually abundant with.
Carpet fibers easily trap dirt, pollen, animal dander, and other allergens, while tile and laminate can also trap such allergens. Tile grout, which is a must for such flooring, is also known to house mold and mildew.
Grades almost always refer to the amount of flaws in the material such as knot holes, worm holes, mineral streaks, etc… Select and better is the highest grade which is completely clean and clear with absolutely no knot holes, worm holes, imperfections or mineral streaks. # 1 common is one grade down from select and better. This material does have small knot holes, mineral streaks and a greater variation in grain pattern from board to board. # 2 common is the next down the list with larger knot holes, splits, worm holes, major mineral streaking and many, many flaws. # 3 common material is available in some species but is not recommended for much at all as the material is full of flaws and imperfections. For durability, always refer to the Janka score; grades are more likely to help you determine what style of floor you want, rather than how well it will perform.
Hardwood floors are sold in essentially two types; solid and engineered. Solid hardwood is a single plank of solid wood, and is the most traditional form of hardwood flooring. A solid hardwood floor can be sanded and refinished up to 7 times, and can last 100 years or longer with proper care. However, because of the solid nature of the wood, these floors are susceptible to moisture, and cannot be installed below grade or in areas with high humidity, as they may swell, buckle, or warp over time.
Hardwood Floor Installation And Refinishing
Tap 1/4-inch shims in between the edges of the floor and the wall to leave room for expansion (Image 3). Weight down the first few rows with something heavy, but use a rag underneath the weight to protect the floor. Use a damp cloth to clean off adhesive from surfaces. Let adhesive dry for 24 hours.
Laminate is also available as a floating floor and is perfect for use over concrete below, on, or above grade using an approved underlayment pad, and recommended 6mm plastic sheeting or concrete sealer as the moisture barrier over concrete.